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The ATTiny85 can not only act as a keyboard, it can also act as a mouse.
Extreme caution if you use this as the program does not only mouse movements, it also clicks!
( Examples \ DigisparkMouse \ Mouse )

// DigiMouse test and usage documentation
// CAUTION!!!! This does click things!!!!!!!!
// Originally created by Sean Murphy (duckythescientist)

#include <DigiMouse.h>

void setup() {
  DigiMouse.begin(); //start or reenumerate USB - BREAKING CHANGE from old versions that didn't require this
}

void loop() {
  // If not using plentiful DigiMouse.delay(), make sure to call
  // DigiMouse.update() at least every 50ms

  // move across the screen
  // these are signed chars
  DigiMouse.moveY(10); //down 10
  DigiMouse.delay(500);
  DigiMouse.moveX(20); //right 20
  DigiMouse.delay(500);
  DigiMouse.scroll(5);
  DigiMouse.delay(500);

  // or DigiMouse.move(X, Y, scroll) works

  // three buttons are the three LSBs of an unsigned char
  DigiMouse.setButtons(1<<0); //left click
  DigiMouse.delay(500);
  DigiMouse.setButtons(0); //unclick all
  DigiMouse.delay(500);

  //or you can use these functions to click
  DigiMouse.rightClick();
  DigiMouse.delay(500);
  DigiMouse.leftClick();
  DigiMouse.delay(500);
  DigiMouse.middleClick();
  DigiMouse.delay(500);

  //for compatability with other libraries you can also use DigiMouse.move(X, Y, scroll, buttons)
}
I have tested this script on with my digispark and it worked. The movements are relative to the current position. I did not dare to experiment and move it to bottom left on a windows computer and use Microsoft start to start programs.

One of the scripts that works on my attiny85 is a keyboard emulator.
All is done  with the next simple script that was available as a sample script in the library;
(   File \ Examples \ DigisparkKeyboard \  Keyboard )

#include "DigiKeyboard.h"

void setup() {
  // don't need to set anything up to use DigiKeyboard
}

void loop() {
  // this is generally not necessary but with some older systems it seems to
  // prevent missing the first character after a delay:
  DigiKeyboard.sendKeyStroke(0);

  // Type out this string letter by letter on the computer (assumes US-style
  // keyboard)
  DigiKeyboard.println("Hello Digispark!");

  // It's better to use DigiKeyboard.delay() over the regular Arduino delay()
  // if doing keyboard stuff because it keeps talking to the computer to make
  // sure the computer knows the keyboard is alive and connected
  DigiKeyboard.delay(5000);
}

After uploading the script the program starts so watch out where to put the cursor when uploading the script.
The Digispark USB reacts if it is a keyboard where the  "Hello Digispark!" is typed over and over again (with a delay  5000 ).

Hello Digispark!
Hello Digispark!
Hello Digispark!
Hello Digispark!

An application could be reading some sensor data on the attiny85 and outputting it e.g. in a spreadsheet.

Recently received some ATTiny85 USB (Digispark Digistump) boards from Aliexpress.
I already experimented earlier with these small boards with chip that can be programmed easy by putting it in the USB connector of your computer.
These boards come (standard) with Dupont connectors (male or female) that you can solder on these small boards to conello Digispark!
nect it easy in experiments. I wanted a not connecting each time Dupont wires, a little bit more protection for the USB module more distance from my computer,.
To prepare a module i cut some wires with female Dupont connectors and soldered this directly to the module. (To prevent shortcuts i used female not the male).
With transparent heat shrink i added some protection for the board.
ATTiny PINsOn the side (bottom of the picture) are three connections (starting from USB)
5V(Color of my wire: )  RedGND      (Color of my wire: ) BlackVin(Color of my wire: ) BrownOpposite to the USB connector are 6 holes
Digital-AnalogPWMI2CPSIColor
of my
 wireP0(LED on
 model B)ArefPWM0SDAMQSIWhiteP1(LED on
 model A)
PWM1
MISOVioletP2
A1
SCLSCKBlueP3USB+A3

xxGreenP4USB-A2PWM4
xxYellowP5(Reset on
some models)A0

xxOrange
A simple blink script to test the module is
// the setup routine runs once when you press reset:
void setup() { // initialize the digital pin as an output. 
//  pinMode(0, OUTPUT); //LED on Model B
     pinMode(1, OUTPUT); //LED on Model A or Pro }

// the loop routine runs over and over again forever:
void loop() {
//  digitalWrite(0, HIGH);   // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)
     digitalWrite(1, HIGH);
     delay(500);               // wait for a second


//  digitalWrite(0, LOW);    // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW
     digitalWrite(1, LOW);
     delay(500);               // wait for a second
}

The led on my module reacts on P1. So I expect i have a model A.

I wanted to do some easy prototyping with SMD leds (and other components).
SMD components are available in different (small) sizes.
One of the ways I made the SMD leds breadboard friendly is as follows:

1) Put an SMD led and a long Dupont pin connector on your workbench,
2) If the SMD led is somewhat bigger remove a pin (the second pin) from the connector.
3) Tin the Dupont connector where it needs to be connected to the led.
4) Push the Dupont connector on the led and solder by heating the connector. If needed add a little solder.
5) Cut the connector on the desired size (2 or '3' ) pin.
6) Test the led and the connections using a led tester.

By cutting the connector after soldering it is more easy to push the connector on the led and making the solder join.

On the picture you see at the left some end results and at the right a "standard" red led as size reference.
On the bottom left a " big" SMD led with a Dupont connector with the middle male pin removed.
The other 3 SMD leds are smaller leds that fit on two pins.

Making a custom flexible USB ledBuilding a flexible USB led.It is possible to buy a cheap flexible led (or fan or other device) with an USB connector. It is more fun to build your own where you can use some special led's.  I created several different flexible USB devices. A fast flashing RGB led gives a nice effect.
The USB connector provides 5 Volts. After selecting a  led your own choice add a small resistor to limit the current. Shortened the legs of the led and added long red and black wires for power connection.
Led and resistor with red and black cable
 and  flexible hose.With transparent heat shrink it is possible to isolate the wires and keep the resistor (value) readable.
A flexible oil hose (also available on Aliexpress) is used as a housing to make it flexible and stable at the same time. In this version i removed the connectors from the hose. It is also possible to change the hose length.
 For the power connector i used also some USB connectors from Aliexpress, an USB connector from an old cable can also be used.
USBAt the USB side of the hose cut away some of the plastic of the hose to make later a better connection. Take care to connect the + to plus and - to minus. By pushing wires and the led inside the hose you can cut the wires easy to the desired length.
After soldering i pushed in the USB connector back in the hose. With the correct wire length the led will just pop out of the other end of the hose. With hot glue the USB connector is glued to the hose.
USB connector and USB chassis part
 for testing and checking plus and minus.








Links to some Aliexpress items i bought (in 2019) to use in this project.

Fast RGB Flash leds 20 pcs 5mm Fast RGB Flash Red Green Blue Rainbow Multi Color light emitting diode Round Rainbow LED can change more than 7 color  (  € 0,89 for 20 pc)Emitted Colour:RGB Rainbow Fast Flash
Rainbow LED can change more than 7 color
Size:5mm
long life 100000hrs (Voltage in the range of)
Energy saving and high efficiency
Super brightness
Operating temperature: -20 to 55°C
Storage temperature: -30 to 80°C
Forward Voltage(V):3-3.2V
Forward Current(mA):20
View Angle:About 25 degree
Luminous Intensity:Highlight
1 / 4W resistor corresponding voltage (For reference)
12V for 470 ohm/ 5V for 100 ohm/ 7.2v for 220 ohm / 9v for 330 ohm / 13.2v for 560 ohm

WSFS Hot 10PCS Round Nozzle 1/4PT Flexible Oil Coolant Pipe Hose Blue Orange For CNC Machine Lathe Milling Cooling Tube Retail    (  € 6,00 to € 7,00  for a lot with 10 pc)

10Pcs/Set DIY USB 2.0 Type A Male 4P Adapter Connector Plug Socket with Plastic Shell (10 pieces for 1,90 euro)

For easy experimenting added resistors and a Dupont connector to a 'normal through hole' RGB led. Transparent heat shrink was added for electrical insulation and to keep the resistors (and the common pin wire) visible.

iTagBluetooth iTags advertisements say you can use this cheap devices to find your keys, wallet and other items.
I ordered 5 of this iTags to see if they can really help me and my family to find items or prevent losing them. On the Aliexpress page i found 4 different colors so i received two of the same color.
The iTags came in a plastic bag with a small instruction on paper with QR code links to the software without the CR2032 Lithium (3V) battery. From the 5 iTags i received one did not work.
The cover of the battery compartment needs to be removed to put in the new battery. It is not mentioned in the manual but you can easy swap two covers with different colors. This way you can easy identify more than 4 distinct iTags without writing on it.  You can make combinations like a Black iTag with a White battery cover.
iTag with battery cover
of iTag of another colorThe QR code for English android software links to the cTracing app on the Google Play Store. With this app you can use multiple iTags. In the app you can change the name of the iTag and even add a photo to identify the iTag.
Keeping the push button on the iTag pressed 3 seconds sends outs two beeps on the iTag, a led on the iTag starts flashing and the iTag is switched on and can be connected to your phone using the app.
If the distance between the iTag an the phone is to big (and the Bluetooth signal gets weaker) an alarm can go off. In the app the distance can be set to short, medium and long. Also the distance unit can be switched between meters and foot. Depending on the settings the button on the iTag can also be used to activate an alarm on the Bluetooth connected phone, switch on voice recording, take a photo or store the current location.
It also should store current the location if connection between the tag and the phone is lost. To find lost items with the iTag and the app, or use the app for preventing loss of your items will be very challenging. The Bluetooth on the iTag can switch of after a few minutes. The connection will be lost and a false alarm will be triggered. Also finding your iTag back after leaving it somewhere a few hours will be quite impossible as the iTag will be switched off and not sending a traceable Bluetooth signal.
To use an iTag to find your phone also does not work as the connection between the iTag an the phone is not (always) restored automatic if it was disconnected and the Bluetooth signal is received again by the phone. Perhaps other apps (or another phone setting) will help to overcome this problem.
Also i noticed some small differences between similar looking iTags. I have seen photo's and video's where you can only see two battery connections and a white plastic when opening the battery compartment. In my iTags can see the PCB with some connections.
Besides the color there are also some other small visual differences between the iTags i got from my seller. Some have a small battery connections at the side and others have a somewhat bigger connection at the side to the +pole of the battery.
I don't know if there are other differences (e.g. in the internal hardware or software) of iTags that look similar.

Conclusion
The iTag i received switches off automatic and triggers false lost signals. Also one of the 5 cheap iTags was dead on arrival. Perhaps there are better iTags but due to this issue i can not recommend this iTag and i doubt if it can really help you find lost items.

More infoJG iTag Alarm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DvG5ymq46WI

The £1 Bluetooth Tracker https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYX8YKw3vGM

To get more experience with SMD soldering i build this led chaser.
The circuit of this running light consists of a 555 timer to make pulses
 and a 4017 counter. Both ICs are SMD and also the two condensators C1 and C2 and the other 12 resistors.
The photo below shows the difference is size of a "standard" resistor and an SMD resistor.here are also small SMD leds, however "standard" red led lights are used.
To my surprise the SMD intergrated circuits where more easy to solder than the resistors and condensators.
I used a soldering iron, flux pen, tweezers and a magnifier glass.
The video shows the working circuit. As you can see the  wires of the leds are not cut off as i wanted to attach Dupont connectors to do some more experiments with this small cheap Aliexpress DIY circuit.