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Experimenting with 433MHz remote control can easy done with these small modules.

QIACHIP 433Mhz Wireless Receiver Transmitter Remote Control Learning Code 1527 Decoder Module 4 CH output Learning Button

QIACHIP 433Mhz Wireless Receiver Transmitter Remote Control Learning Code 1527 Decoder Module 4 CH output Learning Button


I ordered a package with
Receiver module (RX480E-4) * 10pcs
Transmitting module(TX118SA-4) * 10pcs
My order did not include the antenna's. This was also mentioned in the description, in the description where instructions how to make your own small antenna.
However i decided to also order some antenna's (5 transmit and 5 receive).

This is the product description of both modules

Brand Name: QIACHIP
Use: Universal,Lighting,Electric Door,Automated curtains,Switch
Wireless Communication: RF
Channel: 4
Package: No
Frequency: 433 MHz
Model Number:
TX118SA + RX480E 433Mhz Universal Remote Control For Smart Home Garage
Product Description
Pin Description:
- : Negative power supply
+: Positive power supply, DC 3-24V
K1: 1 short to Negative start transmitting data, Similar the A button on the remote control.
K2: 2 short to Negative start transmitting data, Similar the B button on the remote control.
K3: 3 short to Negative start transmitting data, Similar the C button on the remote control.
K4: 4 short to Negative start transmitting data, Similar the D button on the remote control.
ANT: transmitting antenna


[Receiver module ] Product Model: RX480-4ch
Model: KSL-RX480-4ch
Working voltage: DC2.5V-5V
Working current:3MA
The sensitivity: -108DBM
rate: MAX 10KB/S
Working mode:Point move, self-locking, interlocking
The output: 4 channel CMOS level signal Corresponding to the remote control ABCD 4 buttons.
Pin Description:
GND : ground or negative pole
+V : DC3.3~5V input
D0: Data output
D1: Data output
D2: Data output
D3: Data output
VT: Output （When any pin of D0-D3 outputs the level signal, VT is output synchronously; VT is usually used as the output indicator.）

Applications (mentioned in the description)
1.wireless power switch, socket, remote control switch, receiver module,
2. access control, electric cars, motorcycles, automobile anti-theft products, remote door openers, closers control system
3. security, surveillance systems, home security products, electric doors, alarm host, alarm
4. rooms controls, shutter doors, windows, remote control socket, remote control LED, remote audio remote control electric doors, garage door remote control, remote control retractable doors, remote rolling gates, sliding door
5. smart home products, remote control curtains, remote MP3,

The first i build was a small transmitter module (using the transmitter module, a small 4 button pcb ans a battery holder.
Next i wired a receiver module up on a small veroboard with some leds resistors, a battery holder, an on off switch for the small battery. For the connection to the module i used dupont connectors so i can easy change the module. I also included the status led and a programming push button. These two items are also available on the pcb module itself so they are not really needed.
 Later i also created a second transmitter module on a verboard with some big buttons
 
I hope to find soon more time for my next post with more info about this interesting and easy to use modules.

Also i sometimes want temporary connections for testing or transferring data. Therefore i ordered some pogo pins The pogo pins or spring-loaded pins where ordered relative cheap (e.g. on AliExpress) as a set of 100 pieces.

I also often use dupont connectors in my projects. So i made a simple dupont - pogopin adapter.
For the dupont side i used the crimp wire connector.
I soldered some pogo pins in some female dupont crimp wire contacts.
The i used pliers to close the crimp contacts.
Finally i did put it in the Dupont housing.
Currently i only made this cheap 1x 3 pin housing and 2x 1 pin housing connectors. See photo's.

 

Some time ago i received this nice PCBs with 4 push buttons in my Aliexpress mailbag.
.
The PCBs and buttons are somewhat smaller than expected. (About 32mm*8 mm)  
However they are relative cheap. For 10 PCBs with 4 buttons i did
 pay € 3,41 including shipment, so about 34 cent each.
One side of each button is connected to a separate pin marked K1, K2, K3 and K4. The connections on the other side of the button are joined together and is marked GND 

To 4 of these PCBs i soldered Dupont header to easy use them for prototyping.
The two on the right in the picture have straight male headers and can be easy plugged in a breadboard.
The bottom left has a 5 pin female header. The top on the left has 5 bend male header pins. The idea is that i can easy use the PCB with buttons one on the left with some Dupont wires.

  \  selfemit2":  FORTH  : code rewritten / adapted to run in WinForth 
  \  ( ugly as nice code 'goto NameFieldAddres' not quickly found in WinForth )

: selfemit2": here 4 + CREATE , DOES> @ swap 2* + dup @ emit 1+ @ emit ; 

 \  Example

selfemit2": MoTuWeThFrSaSu       \ Self emitting text

1 MoTuWeThFrSaSu   \ Emits Mo
2 MoTuWeThFrSaSu   \ Emits Tu
\ ..
7 MoTuWeThFrSaSu   \ Emits Su

   \ Also generic selfemit": can be made for use as
   \ 3 selfemit": MonTueWedThuFriSatSun
   \ 2 selfemit": MoTuWeThFrSaSu
   \
   \ or a complex flexible lenght that splits words at the capital in
   \  selfemitF": MondayTuesdayWednesdayThursdayFridaySaturdaySunday
   \
   \ For other Forth's or more/less characters BE CREATIVE 
   \ (Code does not work if complete defined string is not stored.
   \  I have seen Forth's that only store some characters and a checksum )
   \
   \          JanJeronimus   29MAR2021 

As i was playing with my ST Link programmer and STM8S development boards having a simple Dupont pin Female to Female gender changes perhaps would be would be more easy than changing cables to the required gender.
Making a simple female to female was more easy than expected.

First i did think i needed to solder. However female Dupont connector headers can easy be pushed together to create an adapter.
With insulation tape you can prevent the separation on these two headers.

  

On AliExpress i also ordered the  EU-STM8S207|103-DEMO board.

This board has two STM8 controllers and several hardware items.
According to info the two STM8 controlers should be able to communicate with each other.
There is a MicroSD card holder, a W2064 Flash ram, A buzzer (Beep), LDR, One reset button. Two buttons connected to the 207 and one button connected to the 103 (on which pin??), Several connectors (e.g. for ESP01 wifi),GSM. SPI, I2C AD/DA, GDM, 207-UART1 a 207-SWIM and 103-SWIM and some other items. Also additional boards to add more hardware can be ordered.

Unfortunately i could not yet find good documentation or a schematic diagram.

After playing with a cheap STM8S103F3P6 board i decided to try out this board and connected my ST-link (shown in an earlier post) to the 103-SWIM connector. On this board the SWIM connector indicates 5V so i used 5V.  ( The STM8S103F3P6 board indicates 3V3 so there i used 3V3).

I modified the STM8S Blink sketch to the sketch below to test the output pins.

// CODE

const int LED_TT = 12;

/
 pinMode(LED_TT, OUTPUT);
}

// the loop function runs over and over again forever

void loop() {

  digitalWrite(LED_TT, HIGH);   // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)

  delay(1000);                       // wait for a second

  digitalWrite(LED_TT, LOW);    // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW

  delay(1000);                       // wait for a second

}

// END CODE

LED_TT is Led To Test
By changing the LED_TT value in the program above i could test the "Clock like arranged Leds".

Results are in the table below.

Clockwise 1-12
LEDs on PCBPin in
Script 10 21 32 44 53 65 76 87 88 109 1111 1212
Strange that the 4 and 3 are swapped. I expect Pin 10 (D10) is not used as this corresponds to SWIM in some pictures i found.

 
 

Some cheap STM8S103F3P6 Breakout Boards recently came in my mailbox from China / AliExpress and i decided that it was time to test them.

This is my first experience STM boards so i did the simple Bink test.

First i heated up my soldering iron to added some Dupont pins to 2 of this boards. At the bottom of this blogpost you see more pictures of the soldered pins  
For programming a SWIM interface /  ST Link is needed. Luckily some weeks earlier a simple ST Link arrived. This was a simple PCB with an USB port and the following connections

To protect the PCB i heat-shrinked this ST Link connector.

Bottom
 [SWD]

Top
[SWIM]

3V3RSTSWD0GNDSWCLKSWIMGND5V

With Dupont wires I made the following hardware connections between the programmer and the STM8S103F3P6 Breakout Board 

STM8S103F3P6Programmer3V33V3SWIMSWIMGNDGNDNRSTRST
After configuring the Arduino IDE so that it can handle STM8  i successfully tested the board with the Blink program from the Arduino IDE (1.8.10) with the settings below.

Tools
 Board:  STM8S103F3 Breakout Board
 Programmer: ST-Link/V2

File
  Examples 
     Examples for STM8S103F3 Breakout Board
          Generic_Examples
                  01 Basics
                              Blink
               

Some links:

• https://tenbaht.github.io/sduino/hardware/stm8blue/
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CfD1d4Z_Vk

STM8S103F3P6 Breakout Board with Dupont pins
On one breakout board i used male ( and male pins with an angle) Dupont pins as often seen with this modules.
For the other STM8S103F3P6 breakout board i used the long Dupont pins with male and female connectors. For the SWIM interface  used male Dupont pins. I also added connectors to the + and - . The idea is that it can be easy placed in a project and the female headers still give easy access to all pins.
It is possible to use both variants on a breadboard.

 Some year ago i also ordered another TM1638, so now i have 2 different types of TM1638 modules this blog post to compare the modules.

ModuleTM1638 LedQTF_TM1628 ConnectionPCB with Dupont connectorsPCB with dupont connectors Posthttps://blog.jeronimus.net/2017/07/tm1638-8-bit-digital-led-module-1.html
https://blog.jeronimus.net/2021/01/qyf-tm1638-test.html Picture LCD display88 Led80 Dupont
Pin Arrangement
(top-down)

• VCC
• GND
• STB
• CLK
• DIO

• GND
• DIO
• CLK
• STB
• VCC

Buttons816 Buttons816 Buttons816
Both modules have 8 seven segment displays.
The big difference is that my first module has 8 leds and less (8) input keys, while my second module has 16 keys and no leds. As the 16 pins are arranged as 4*4 this module can be used as a Hex keypad. 
The Dupont pin arrangement on both PCBs is different.
Below schematic diagram of the modules as i did not put it in my previous posts. 


Diagrams and some other interesting info (in Italian) about these modules can be found at http://www.microcontroller.it/Tutorials/Elettronica/componenti/tm1638.htm

Tested my QYF TM1638 module with Arduino Uno

After some experimenting with my QYF-TM1628 board i got the example found at http://www.getmicros.net/arduino-qyf-tm1638-module-example.php
and arduino library at https://github.com/rjbatista/tm1638-library working.

First i tried without success another example found somewhere else on the internet. After further searching i found the example mentioned above. I had some doubt as the text in the wiring picture contained an error (two times GND at the Pinout text in the picture). I followed the wiring as displayed in the picture and the code, So my wiring was

• Gnd – GND from Arduino
• DIO – data pin, another ouput from your Arduino (Pin 8)
• CLK – clock pin, an output from your Arduino (Pin 9)
• STB – strobe pin, an output from your Arduino (Pin 10)
• VCC – 5v from Arduino (5V)

The Dupont wire provided with the module was Female-Female, so i replaced it with female-male to connect it with an Arduino Uno. 

Example code:
#include <TM1638.h>
#include <TM1638QYF.h>
 
TM1638QYF module(8,9,10);
word mode;
 
unsigned long startTime;
 
void setup() {
  startTime = millis();
 
  module.setupDisplay(true, 7);
  mode = 0;
}
 
void update(TM1638QYF* module, word* mode) {
  word buttons = module->getButtons();
  unsigned long runningSecs = (millis() - startTime) / 1000;
 
  // button pressed - change mode
  if (buttons != 0) {
    *mode = buttons >> 1;
 
    if (*mode < 128) {
      module->clearDisplay();
      delay(100);
    }
  }
 
  switch (*mode) {
    case 0:
      module->setDisplayToDecNumber(runningSecs, 1 << 6);
      break;
    case 1:
      module->setDisplayToDecNumber(runningSecs, 1 << 5, false);
      break;
    case 2:
      module->setDisplayToHexNumber(runningSecs, 1 << 4);
      break;
    case 4:
      module->setDisplayToHexNumber(runningSecs, 1 << 3, false);
      break;
    case 8:
      module->setDisplayToBinNumber(runningSecs, 1 << 2);
      break;
    case 16:
      char s[9];
      sprintf(s, "Secs %03d", runningSecs % 999);
      module->setDisplayToString(s, 1 << 1);
      break;
    case 32:
      if (runningSecs % 2 == 0) {
        module->setDisplayToString("TM1638QY", 1);
      } else {
        module->setDisplayToString(String("LIBRARY "), 1);
      }
 
      break;
    case 64:
      module->setDisplayToError();
      break;
    case 128:
      module->setDisplayToDecNumber(*mode, 0);
      break;
    case 256:
      module->setDisplayToString("ABCDE", 1 << (runningSecs % 8));
      break;
    default:
      module->setDisplayToBinNumber(buttons & 0xF, buttons >> 8);
  }
}

 Some items in from my january 2021 mailbag from AliExpress


QYF_TM1638

A PCB with 16 buttons and 8 seven segment displays and a driver that looks nice to use for I/O in projects e.g. with an Arduino.PCB with 4 Buttons10 PCBs with 4 buttons each.
The PCBs and buttons are somewhat smaller than expected. (About 32mm*8 mm) However they are relative cheap and can be used easy in projects. Expect to use some with Dupont pins for use on a breadboard, some with wires and some direct soldered in projects. Also the next item is a reason that i did buy this cheap 4 buttons on a PCB.433 MHz receiver / transmitter.10 sets 433 MHz receivers and transmitters. Each set has 4 channels. I do not know if the signals interfere. It would be easy to connect one of the 4 button PCBs above with one of the 433 MHz transmitter. Where i ordered them antenna's where not included. However there are instructions how to make simple antennas for the receiver and transmitter.  I hope to find time to make an antenna set and test this item and post an update with more details on this blog.
UV LampOn AliExpress i also found this relative cheap 220 - 110 Volt UV Lamp. I ordered the 220Volt version without power plug and it came well packaged in foam. With a real UV lamp never radiate living tissue, your skin and take special care to protect your eyes.   I don't know if it really is an UV lamp and if it can be used for disinfection.   I have somewhere a UV detection card to test it. I decided to give it a try, perhaps it will be useful to radiate my postbag items. I did not test it yet.
Arduino CNC Shield
As i have on my long term wish list to experiment with a 3D printer / CNC machine or laser engraver i ordered this shield for an Arduino Uno. For the upcoming months i already have other plans, so this will become a long term project. However as i do not know how easy it will be in the future to get items from AliExpress i decided to already but this Arduino Uno Shield. 
 Arduino Mega and Enclosure
This two items (on one photo) where a little disappointing. It are two separate items bought from the same seller at AliExpress. On the right an Arduino Mega. On the left and middle a cheap enclodure to protect the Arduino Mega. When the enclosure came the top plate (in the middle of the photo) was not broken. This was due to my fault! I was surprised how easy it brake. I have mounted several similar enclosures for Arduino Uno's. This was the first one for Arduino Mega. The top plate from the enclosure (on the photo in the middle) dropped from table height on the floor and did brake.Mounting of this cheap enclosure on the Chinese Arduino Mega clone was already a problem so unfortunate it was not a big loss. On this Arduino Mega the power and USB connectors are not on the exact right place so it did not fit in the holes of the enclosure. I think i will only mount the Arduino Mega on the base plate. I noticed the base plate has also holes for using it with an Arduino Uno what is a plus for this enclosure. For an Arduino Uno the holes fit exact so i expect the problem is the Arduino Mega. However i want to inform readers of this blog about the two minus points:
The top plate of the enclosure is fragile.
I think the power and USB connectors on this Arduino Mega Clone are not on the exact right position, so it does not fit in a 'standard enclosure'. 

Some time ago the youtuber Big Clive published on his Youtube channelhis "Big Clive's SuperComputer". Several other people build their own version of this device. Some even published it on their Youtube channel. ( e.g. Julian Ilett , Learnelectronics , TheEPROM9 )
I have the parts for it, it gives a nice endresult so i decided to build one. The "Supercomputer" is a display with flashing (led)lights giving the impression of a retro computer.
I wanted to use 5 mm color leds and make it configurable, power it with  9 volt battery and use a 5*7 cm perfboard (as i have several of these boards). On the 5*7 cm board could fit 6*9 leds. However on the perfboard are only holes for 6*8. There is just one row of holes missing for nice distribution of 9 columns of leds with two open holes between each column.
I decide to put 6 rows by 9 columns anyway. I did bend the legs of the leds in the last column in a chair shape and place his leds in the last column. With the zigzag chair legs the 9 led light columns gets distributed equally.
With 6 rows of leds one row with holes is free. I used this row for Dupont male pins with jumpers. Using the jumpers it is possible to enable or disable the power to groups of leds. As i have colored jumpers i decided to use jumpers in the same color as the corresponding leds.
For selecting groups of leds any arrangement is possible. I decided to use the arrangement below:
A rectangle of red blink leds surrounded by blue blink leds and these leds surrounded by a rectangle of yellow blink leds. (R=red, B=blue, Y=yellow the number is the subgroup Jumpers are marked italic)

R1


B1

B2

B3

Y1

Y2

Y3

Y4

Y3Y2Y2Y2Y2Y2Y2Y2Y4 Y3B3B1B1B1B1B1B3Y4 Y3B3R1R1R1R1R1B3Y4 Y3B3R1R1R1R1R1B3Y4 Y3B2B2B2B2B2B2B2Y4Y1Y1Y1Y1Y1Y1Y1Y1Y1

Using the jumpers selections of blink led can be switched on or off.
With the 8 jumpers 256 combinations can be made (including the all off or all on combination )
This selection determines which leds will be included in a random blink pattern.

To simplify the circuit as much as possible i used one  (470 ohm) resistor for all the leds.. This resulted in a failure due to the blue leds. These leds are different than the red an yellow. When much other leds where switched on the blue leds did not light up or started only blinking when the power was switched on and soon faded out. When i added a second (470 ohm) resistor for all the blue leds the "supercomputer" worked well.

After checking that everything worked as expected  i added a layer of hot glue to the back of the perfboard for protection.

Perhaps i also will post some video's on my YouTube channel of my version of this Big Clive Supercomputer. (Please post comment if you would like this)