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This blogpost is part 1 about the Moes Tuya Smart Bluetooth Fingerbot Button Pusher.  Recently i got the opportunity to buy for 0.01 Eurocent (including shipping) two of these devices on Moes Direct Store on AliExpress. The regular price  is just below 50 Euros, so this is a sponsored blogpost
I was exited to receive these two Fingerbots after 10 days.  The Fingerbot is just a small cube with an arm that can be used to push a button. A 'stándard usb to usb3 cable is included for charging. (The charger itself is not included). Also a toolpack is included with some connectors to use it e.g. for a rocker switch. As you can see on the photos all came in nice packaging.


Without a a special bridge it can communicate direct over Bluetooth with your phone. With a bridge it should be possible to use Alexa or Google home assistant to control it. This bridge was not included for 0.01 Euro and the standard price for it is around 16 euro.
In this blogpost you will find some photos to get an impression.
Connection with bluetooth using the app was easy. A download link for the app was easy found using the provided QR code. In the app are some configuration options. E.g. for setting the bop and bottom position of the moving arm, Selecting a use mode and setting the sustain time for a mode when on or off should move down the arm, waiting during a short interval time and moving up the arm again. Also you can place an icon with a direct link to the fingerbot op you android screen




How good the Fingerbot would works also depends on how good you can glue it to the system what you want to control.  Some material is included to attach it to however I did not install a Fingerbot it yet.
Most electrical devices can be controlled another way so i did not find an immediate use case to push a switch. A use case  for me could be a more mechanical device like an aerosol air freshener, controlling ventilation, moving the plunger of a syringe.
Unfortunately the ventilation in my home needs a much bigger mechanical move than with the Fingerbot 'out of the box' is possible. Perhaps adding a lever would help, however that also increased the amount of force needed. If it would be easy possible to use it on the ventilation above my windows i perhaps would consider buying even some more.


Summary: Interesting device that i otherwise would not have bought as the current original price of around 25 Euro's is relative high.
After more testing i like to create a second post about this interesting device.

Below a selection of items received recently in my 2021 April mailbag. (AliExpress )
Each items is below 22 Euro as i want to keep the complete order price below 22 euro to avoid additional tax and handling fees.

Finally i decided to buy some breadboard wires in a box.
I used Dupont wires or did cut some wires myself when breadboarding.
Let's check if this works better.  Chassis parts tot banana's (also possible to clamp wires)

Perhaps later this year i will order more (perhaps the cheaper ones without possibility to clamp wires) as i have plans to incorporate them in a new workbench. However i expect it will take some time before i can realize that.  
Dupont to crocodile clips Some chips (cheap set to have some 7400 series SMD chips) Never used the Kafuter brand before. After some recommendations in several YouTube channels i decided to buy some K-705 Cheap servo motors.
I still had some, however i wanted to have some more in stock. One nice thing of the design for this mains power plug converters is that you can plug in EU and US type power plugs.
Power plug converters to US power sockets and also one to an EU socket was included.Always good to have some power supplies in stock for projects Mains 220V to 5V , 3V3 and 12V I like these plastic nuts, bolts and distance holders.
I use them sometimes as spacers to put   PCBs on my table. This UV curable liquid looked nice. When opening the package (not full opening, just to the plastic bag you see on the photo, is sensed a very strong bad smell. I even decided to put it outside of my house in my shed, hoping after some time the smell will go away so i can start playing with it.  Some tweezers for working with SMD components Manual suction tool for SMD components Another small weighing scale.
I was happy to give my first one to my family as they want it to use for bakery.
However i want one myself e.g. for counting components and experiments. Cheap small temperature regulated USB soldering iron.
As i always wanted to have a portable soldering iron (USB). The temperature regulation and price was for me the most important selection criteria.
After receiving the soldering iron i ordered some spare tips and they arrived after some days.

Vibration sensors

Experimenting with 433MHz remote control can easy done with these small modules.

QIACHIP 433Mhz Wireless Receiver Transmitter Remote Control Learning Code 1527 Decoder Module 4 CH output Learning Button

QIACHIP 433Mhz Wireless Receiver Transmitter Remote Control Learning Code 1527 Decoder Module 4 CH output Learning Button


I ordered a package with
Receiver module (RX480E-4) * 10pcs
Transmitting module(TX118SA-4) * 10pcs
My order did not include the antenna's. This was also mentioned in the description, in the description where instructions how to make your own small antenna.
However i decided to also order some antenna's (5 transmit and 5 receive).

This is the product description of both modules

Brand Name: QIACHIP
Use: Universal,Lighting,Electric Door,Automated curtains,Switch
Wireless Communication: RF
Channel: 4
Package: No
Frequency: 433 MHz
Model Number:
TX118SA + RX480E 433Mhz Universal Remote Control For Smart Home Garage
Product Description
Pin Description:
- : Negative power supply
+: Positive power supply, DC 3-24V
K1: 1 short to Negative start transmitting data, Similar the A button on the remote control.
K2: 2 short to Negative start transmitting data, Similar the B button on the remote control.
K3: 3 short to Negative start transmitting data, Similar the C button on the remote control.
K4: 4 short to Negative start transmitting data, Similar the D button on the remote control.
ANT: transmitting antenna


[Receiver module ] Product Model: RX480-4ch
Model: KSL-RX480-4ch
Working voltage: DC2.5V-5V
Working current:3MA
The sensitivity: -108DBM
rate: MAX 10KB/S
Working mode:Point move, self-locking, interlocking
The output: 4 channel CMOS level signal Corresponding to the remote control ABCD 4 buttons.
Pin Description:
GND : ground or negative pole
+V : DC3.3~5V input
D0: Data output
D1: Data output
D2: Data output
D3: Data output
VT: Output （When any pin of D0-D3 outputs the level signal, VT is output synchronously; VT is usually used as the output indicator.）

Applications (mentioned in the description)
1.wireless power switch, socket, remote control switch, receiver module,
2. access control, electric cars, motorcycles, automobile anti-theft products, remote door openers, closers control system
3. security, surveillance systems, home security products, electric doors, alarm host, alarm
4. rooms controls, shutter doors, windows, remote control socket, remote control LED, remote audio remote control electric doors, garage door remote control, remote control retractable doors, remote rolling gates, sliding door
5. smart home products, remote control curtains, remote MP3,

The first i build was a small transmitter module (using the transmitter module, a small 4 button pcb ans a battery holder.
Next i wired a receiver module up on a small veroboard with some leds resistors, a battery holder, an on off switch for the small battery. For the connection to the module i used dupont connectors so i can easy change the module. I also included the status led and a programming push button. These two items are also available on the pcb module itself so they are not really needed.
 Later i also created a second transmitter module on a verboard with some big buttons
 
I hope to find soon more time for my next post with more info about this interesting and easy to use modules.

Also i sometimes want temporary connections for testing or transferring data. Therefore i ordered some pogo pins The pogo pins or spring-loaded pins where ordered relative cheap (e.g. on AliExpress) as a set of 100 pieces.

I also often use dupont connectors in my projects. So i made a simple dupont - pogopin adapter.
For the dupont side i used the crimp wire connector.
I soldered some pogo pins in some female dupont crimp wire contacts.
The i used pliers to close the crimp contacts.
Finally i did put it in the Dupont housing.
Currently i only made this cheap 1x 3 pin housing and 2x 1 pin housing connectors. See photo's.

 

Some time ago i received this nice PCBs with 4 push buttons in my Aliexpress mailbag.
.
The PCBs and buttons are somewhat smaller than expected. (About 32mm*8 mm)  
However they are relative cheap. For 10 PCBs with 4 buttons i did
 pay € 3,41 including shipment, so about 34 cent each.
One side of each button is connected to a separate pin marked K1, K2, K3 and K4. The connections on the other side of the button are joined together and is marked GND 

To 4 of these PCBs i soldered Dupont header to easy use them for prototyping.
The two on the right in the picture have straight male headers and can be easy plugged in a breadboard.
The bottom left has a 5 pin female header. The top on the left has 5 bend male header pins. The idea is that i can easy use the PCB with buttons one on the left with some Dupont wires.

  \  selfemit2":  FORTH  : code rewritten / adapted to run in WinForth 
  \  ( ugly as nice code 'goto NameFieldAddres' not quickly found in WinForth )

: selfemit2": here 4 + CREATE , DOES> @ swap 2* + dup @ emit 1+ @ emit ; 

 \  Example

selfemit2": MoTuWeThFrSaSu       \ Self emitting text

1 MoTuWeThFrSaSu   \ Emits Mo
2 MoTuWeThFrSaSu   \ Emits Tu
\ ..
7 MoTuWeThFrSaSu   \ Emits Su

   \ Also generic selfemit": can be made for use as
   \ 3 selfemit": MonTueWedThuFriSatSun
   \ 2 selfemit": MoTuWeThFrSaSu
   \
   \ or a complex flexible lenght that splits words at the capital in
   \  selfemitF": MondayTuesdayWednesdayThursdayFridaySaturdaySunday
   \
   \ For other Forth's or more/less characters BE CREATIVE 
   \ (Code does not work if complete defined string is not stored.
   \  I have seen Forth's that only store some characters and a checksum )
   \
   \          JanJeronimus   29MAR2021 

As i was playing with my ST Link programmer and STM8S development boards having a simple Dupont pin Female to Female gender changes perhaps would be would be more easy than changing cables to the required gender.
Making a simple female to female was more easy than expected.

First i did think i needed to solder. However female Dupont connector headers can easy be pushed together to create an adapter.
With insulation tape you can prevent the separation on these two headers.

  

On AliExpress i also ordered the  EU-STM8S207|103-DEMO board.

This board has two STM8 controllers and several hardware items.
According to info the two STM8 controlers should be able to communicate with each other.
There is a MicroSD card holder, a W2064 Flash ram, A buzzer (Beep), LDR, One reset button. Two buttons connected to the 207 and one button connected to the 103 (on which pin??), Several connectors (e.g. for ESP01 wifi),GSM. SPI, I2C AD/DA, GDM, 207-UART1 a 207-SWIM and 103-SWIM and some other items. Also additional boards to add more hardware can be ordered.

Unfortunately i could not yet find good documentation or a schematic diagram.

After playing with a cheap STM8S103F3P6 board i decided to try out this board and connected my ST-link (shown in an earlier post) to the 103-SWIM connector. On this board the SWIM connector indicates 5V so i used 5V.  ( The STM8S103F3P6 board indicates 3V3 so there i used 3V3).

I modified the STM8S Blink sketch to the sketch below to test the output pins.

// CODE

const int LED_TT = 12;

/
 pinMode(LED_TT, OUTPUT);
}

// the loop function runs over and over again forever

void loop() {

  digitalWrite(LED_TT, HIGH);   // turn the LED on (HIGH is the voltage level)

  delay(1000);                       // wait for a second

  digitalWrite(LED_TT, LOW);    // turn the LED off by making the voltage LOW

  delay(1000);                       // wait for a second

}

// END CODE

LED_TT is Led To Test
By changing the LED_TT value in the program above i could test the "Clock like arranged Leds".

Results are in the table below.

Clockwise 1-12
LEDs on PCBPin in
Script 10 21 32 44 53 65 76 87 88 109 1111 1212
Strange that the 4 and 3 are swapped. I expect Pin 10 (D10) is not used as this corresponds to SWIM in some pictures i found.

 
 

Some cheap STM8S103F3P6 Breakout Boards recently came in my mailbox from China / AliExpress and i decided that it was time to test them.

This is my first experience STM boards so i did the simple Bink test.

First i heated up my soldering iron to added some Dupont pins to 2 of this boards. At the bottom of this blogpost you see more pictures of the soldered pins  
For programming a SWIM interface /  ST Link is needed. Luckily some weeks earlier a simple ST Link arrived. This was a simple PCB with an USB port and the following connections

To protect the PCB i heat-shrinked this ST Link connector.

Bottom
 [SWD]

Top
[SWIM]

3V3RSTSWD0GNDSWCLKSWIMGND5V

With Dupont wires I made the following hardware connections between the programmer and the STM8S103F3P6 Breakout Board 

STM8S103F3P6Programmer3V33V3SWIMSWIMGNDGNDNRSTRST
After configuring the Arduino IDE so that it can handle STM8  i successfully tested the board with the Blink program from the Arduino IDE (1.8.10) with the settings below.

Tools
 Board:  STM8S103F3 Breakout Board
 Programmer: ST-Link/V2

File
  Examples 
     Examples for STM8S103F3 Breakout Board
          Generic_Examples
                  01 Basics
                              Blink
               

Some links:

• https://tenbaht.github.io/sduino/hardware/stm8blue/
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CfD1d4Z_Vk

STM8S103F3P6 Breakout Board with Dupont pins
On one breakout board i used male ( and male pins with an angle) Dupont pins as often seen with this modules.
For the other STM8S103F3P6 breakout board i used the long Dupont pins with male and female connectors. For the SWIM interface  used male Dupont pins. I also added connectors to the + and - . The idea is that it can be easy placed in a project and the female headers still give easy access to all pins.
It is possible to use both variants on a breadboard.

 Some year ago i also ordered another TM1638, so now i have 2 different types of TM1638 modules this blog post to compare the modules.

ModuleTM1638 LedQTF_TM1628 ConnectionPCB with Dupont connectorsPCB with dupont connectors Posthttps://blog.jeronimus.net/2017/07/tm1638-8-bit-digital-led-module-1.html
https://blog.jeronimus.net/2021/01/qyf-tm1638-test.html Picture LCD display88 Led80 Dupont
Pin Arrangement
(top-down)

• VCC
• GND
• STB
• CLK
• DIO

• GND
• DIO
• CLK
• STB
• VCC

Buttons816 Buttons816 Buttons816
Both modules have 8 seven segment displays.
The big difference is that my first module has 8 leds and less (8) input keys, while my second module has 16 keys and no leds. As the 16 pins are arranged as 4*4 this module can be used as a Hex keypad. 
The Dupont pin arrangement on both PCBs is different.
Below schematic diagram of the modules as i did not put it in my previous posts. 


Diagrams and some other interesting info (in Italian) about these modules can be found at http://www.microcontroller.it/Tutorials/Elettronica/componenti/tm1638.htm

Tested my QYF TM1638 module with Arduino Uno

After some experimenting with my QYF-TM1628 board i got the example found at http://www.getmicros.net/arduino-qyf-tm1638-module-example.php
and arduino library at https://github.com/rjbatista/tm1638-library working.

First i tried without success another example found somewhere else on the internet. After further searching i found the example mentioned above. I had some doubt as the text in the wiring picture contained an error (two times GND at the Pinout text in the picture). I followed the wiring as displayed in the picture and the code, So my wiring was

• Gnd – GND from Arduino
• DIO – data pin, another ouput from your Arduino (Pin 8)
• CLK – clock pin, an output from your Arduino (Pin 9)
• STB – strobe pin, an output from your Arduino (Pin 10)
• VCC – 5v from Arduino (5V)

The Dupont wire provided with the module was Female-Female, so i replaced it with female-male to connect it with an Arduino Uno. 

Example code:
#include <TM1638.h>
#include <TM1638QYF.h>
 
TM1638QYF module(8,9,10);
word mode;
 
unsigned long startTime;
 
void setup() {
  startTime = millis();
 
  module.setupDisplay(true, 7);
  mode = 0;
}
 
void update(TM1638QYF* module, word* mode) {
  word buttons = module->getButtons();
  unsigned long runningSecs = (millis() - startTime) / 1000;
 
  // button pressed - change mode
  if (buttons != 0) {
    *mode = buttons >> 1;
 
    if (*mode < 128) {
      module->clearDisplay();
      delay(100);
    }
  }
 
  switch (*mode) {
    case 0:
      module->setDisplayToDecNumber(runningSecs, 1 << 6);
      break;
    case 1:
      module->setDisplayToDecNumber(runningSecs, 1 << 5, false);
      break;
    case 2:
      module->setDisplayToHexNumber(runningSecs, 1 << 4);
      break;
    case 4:
      module->setDisplayToHexNumber(runningSecs, 1 << 3, false);
      break;
    case 8:
      module->setDisplayToBinNumber(runningSecs, 1 << 2);
      break;
    case 16:
      char s[9];
      sprintf(s, "Secs %03d", runningSecs % 999);
      module->setDisplayToString(s, 1 << 1);
      break;
    case 32:
      if (runningSecs % 2 == 0) {
        module->setDisplayToString("TM1638QY", 1);
      } else {
        module->setDisplayToString(String("LIBRARY "), 1);
      }
 
      break;
    case 64:
      module->setDisplayToError();
      break;
    case 128:
      module->setDisplayToDecNumber(*mode, 0);
      break;
    case 256:
      module->setDisplayToString("ABCDE", 1 << (runningSecs % 8));
      break;
    default:
      module->setDisplayToBinNumber(buttons & 0xF, buttons >> 8);
  }
}